Making a Wearable Toile (Muslin)

My wearable toile,
made from a Batik cotton,

Aa long time ago, when I was sewing for other people, I learned the hard way that when I want to cut out something from really good fabric, it is important to make a toile. It allows me to asses the style and shape and, most importantly, the fit. This also applies to things I make for myself. Normally I would make a toile out of muslin or plain white fabric. This is important if you are making something complicated as you are not distracted by the fabric, but by making a simple, wearable toile, I can do all those things and have something useful at the end of the process. This pretty fabric has been in my stash for several years.  I had always intended to make it into a top and now I have done just that.

What I learned from this toile is that the neckline is too wide and the sleeves are a little too short.  I was also not happy with the narrow hems and the finish of the neckline, for which I used bias binding. (Just call me Mrs Fussy.) So I intend to make another wearable toile (start to finish it only takes about two hours, and I am slow) and get the finish absolutely correct before I make the final garment.  The joy of this is that I will have TWO new tops for summer and who wouldn't be happy about that.

For the my next toile, I will add one inch to the sleeves (otherwise, I might distort the fit) and cut a proper facing for the neck.  Watch this space to see my progress.

The fabric I want to use eventually is a beautiful ivory polyester crepe from Minerva Crafts.  I want something classic and packable that will look good under a jacket for my trip to Russia in May so I better get cracking on the second toile today!

This is the original pattern.  Simple, but effective.

Three Ways to Copy Multi-sized Patterns

This great little pattern would suit a variety of ages
and sizes.

Back in the day when you bought a pattern, you bought it in your own size and there was only that one size in the envelope. Today,  most patterns come in multiple sizes. Many, like the one on the left, would suit a variety of ages. However, once you have cut it out in your size, there is no going back.  All you have left is scraps with the edges of the larger sizes printed on them.  Any smaller sizes are printed inside the one you have cut out and you can't really use them as you will destroy the one you want.
Occasionally, you will want to use the other sizes as well. This top would suit my daughter and I know several people who might like to make it. If you are making children's clothes, you may want to use the larger sizes later. For my sewing club, I made three patterns for pyjama bottoms - small, medium and large and we had a pyjama-making session.



It's really not difficult to copy out the sizes and get maximum value from the outlay on your pattern.
Here are three different ways to do it.

Tracing:
This is the cheapest and easiest way to copy a pattern and would even work on Burda patterns.  On Burda patterns, though, I would add an extra step - use a felt tip pen to draw around your size.  Otherwise, you may find it hard to identify which lines to trace.
What you need:
Your pattern, a soft pencil, a ruler, pins or sello tape, scissors and some greaseproof paper.

A pattern spanning sizes 10 to 22.

Greaseproof paper is very good - sturdy, transparent and will probably last longer than the original paper.
Begin by laying out your pattern and securing the greaseproof paper over it. I used a few pins, but you could use a bit of sellotape.
I carefully traced over the pattern lines, using a ruler where necessary. ( The dressmaker's curves were not really useful on this pattern, but may suit another one. They go back to my pattern making days and were definitely useful then.)
Cut out your pattern and label it. Don't forget the notches, darts, straight grain line and markings like 'cut on fold' and the pattern number and size.
Proceed to next size. I traced sizes 10 to 16.

Covering the pattern with greaseproof paper.

Tools for tracing.

The second method:
What you need:
Large sheets of paper. I used the A2 paper from my husband's whiteboard. You could use newsprint (cheap, unprinted paper) or even newspaper although you would need to ensure the ink did not harm your fabric.

Cut out the largest size that you want to copy.  Lay it on the paper and pin it just like fabric.  Cut around the pattern and label it with straight grain line, notches, darts 'cut on fold' line pattern number and size. Continue with each smaller consecutive size taking care where pattern sizes overlap.

Cutting out the pattern and then the copy on paper.

The third method: Tracing the pattern.

What you need: 

You will need large paper again and a tracing wheel and dressmaker's carbon paper.

Sandwich the pattern, carbon paper (carbon side down) and paper and secure with pins.

You may need to put a few layers of newspaper underneath to allow the tracing wheel to do its work.

Trace around the pattern including markings and notches. Then cut out the pattern and label it.

Dressmaker's carbon paper and a tracing wheel.

Using the tracing wheel and dark dressmaker's carbon paper.

The traced pattern.

The shell top ready to cut out in my size.

Salmon, Leek and Spinach Tart

Salmon, Leek and Spinach Tart

As Nigella Lawson says, 'It's not meant to be restaurant quality, it's meant to look homemade.' and this tart does look homemade, but that is part of its charm.

Last week was a friend's birthday and to celebrate we had a little dinner party here.  She does not eat meat, and not everyone can arrive on time.  Two of my guests have young children and cannot get here until the little ones are safely tucked into bed.  So the menu had to be one that could be kept at room temperature and not be spoiled.  I wanted an easy option and something that could be cooked in advance. I like to be part of the fun, not stuck in the kitchen once guests arrive. This tart was perfect. It was done an hour ahead and we had drinks and nibbles until everyone was here and ready to eat.

I served the tart with roasted tomatoes and a Salade Nicoise, which consisted of Little Gem and Cos lettuce, new potatoes, spring onions, French beans,and avocado.
The cake was a lemon sponge filled with lemon curd and topped with lemon icing.  I served it with vanilla ice cream.
It was a pretty meal, enjoyed by everyone and the 'birthday girl', who usually hosts the birthdays, was delighted.

Here's how to make the tart. It looks complicated, but it is not.
For an even easier option, you could used tinned salmon.

Ingredients:
1 package pre-rolled shortcrust pastry
( You can make your own, but I went for the easy option.)
2 fillets of salmon.
1 leek, washed, split lengthways and chopped.
1/2 packet of baby spinach. (The rest can go in the salad.)
2 eggs
5 oz cream or creme fraiche
10 oz milk
1/2 cup grated Cheddar.
salt and pepper
a little dash of nutmeg or cayenne pepper (optional)

Method:
Fit the pastry to the tart tin.
Put in the fridge for 10 minutes.  This seems to prevent it shrinking.
Brush with a little egg mixed with water.
Blind bake at 200 C for 10 minutes.

While the pastry is in the fridge, put the salmon fillets in a piece of foil, add salt and pepper and a little white wine or lemon juice.
Wrap the foil loosely, ensuring the juices will not escape.
Bake at 180 F for 10 minutes.
Remove from oven, open the foil and allow the salmon to cool enough so you can handle it,
Gently flake the salmon and remove the skin.

Put chopped leeks in a frying pan and saute gently in oil and butter for five minutes to soften.

When the pastry shell has been baked, layer the leeks in the bottom, then the flaked salmon, then the spinach and finally the cheese.

In a small bowl, whisk the two eggs, cream and milk and add seasoning,
Pour the mixture over the salmon, leeks and spinach and put in the oven.
Bake for approximately 25 minutes at 180 F. Keep your eye on it near the end so it doesn't go too brown.
Test the centre with a skewer to see if it is set.
Remove from oven.  Remember that it will continue to cook while it is warm (a bit like scrambled eggs).

Let it cool to room temperature and serve.

Bran Fruit Loaf - A Fun Way to Eat Bran and it's also Egg Free.

Bran Fruit Loaf. Delicious with Butter.

If you feel you are missing fibre in your diet, bran is probably the answer, but if like me, you don't like cereal in the morning, or you find bran too tasteless on its own, you might want to try this.  It's a recipe I got an All-Bran packet in the 80s and I hadn't made it for years, but I remembered that it is quite tasty. It's also eggless.









Bran Fruit Loaf is very simple to do and does not require much equipment. Just as well as I can't lift my mixer at the moment.
I altered the original recipe to make it more interesting and I will show both versions below.

Ingredients:
4 oz (100 g) Bran
5 oz sugar (125g)
10 oz (275 g)mixed dried fruit
1/4 pt milk (1/2 cup)
4 oz Self Raising flout (100 g)

Put the bran, sugar, dried fruit into a basin and mix them well together.
Stir in milk and leave to stand for 30 minutes.
Stir in the flour and pour the mixture into a greased 2 lb loaf tin.
Bake at 350 F or 180 C for about one hour.
Turn out onto a rack and allow to cool.
Cut into slices and serve with butter.

My versions:
I used 3 oz sultanas, 3 oz glace cherries, one Tablespoon mixed peel and some chopped walnuts.
I baked it for about 45 minutes, but it could have baked a little longer.
Delicious.

How to Un-shrink a Sweater

Cardigan back to normal size.

At the weekend I did a terrible thing.  I inadvertently put my favourite cardigan in the washer and dryer.  I normally put it in a wool wash and air dry it. Although it is viscose and elastane, it came out two sizes smaller. It was destined for the charity shop but a friend suggested I look online to see if it could be fixed.  I found the solution on this site:
www.onegoodthingbyjillee.com/.
It worked! I plan to try it with something else now.


Here's what to do.
Put a small amount of fabric conditioner in a plastic bowl and fill it with cool water.
Immerse the cardigan and leave it in this solution for 30 minutes.  This allows the fibres to relax.
Do not rinse.
Roll it in a towel to take away excess moisture.
Spread it out and gently stretch it back to its original shape, if necessary. (I drew around another 
similar cardigan and used the template to check but mine had reverted to its original shape.)
Spread it out  on a clean, dry towel and allow to dry. This will take a day or so, but it's worth it.
Gently press it if necessary.
( If you are dealing with a wool sweater, you may have to stretch and pin it when it is still wet and
then press it with a damp cloth when it is dry.)

A Quick Mid-Week Meal

Pasta with bacon, mushrooms and creme fraiche

This dish is one of my favourite quick meals.  It is tasty and filling and there is a vegetarian option.
Hubby had to help me with lifting and draining the pasta pan, but otherwise I was able to do it myself.  I am at the beginning of my third week of convalescence and still not allowed to lift anything heavier than one litre, so I have to rely on others to do it for me. I am now feeling well enough to be a little bit bored, so this was a bit of light relief.  Not only that, but I managed a short walk to the local shops to get mushrooms!
Here's the recipe followed by alterations for other versions.

I used to make this by the bucket full, but now I am usually cooking for just the two of us.
If you are cooking for four, just double the amounts.

Ingredients for two people:
A handful of pasta for each person to be fed. I use bows.
1 Tablespoon olive oil.
Bacon lardons or chopped bacon (about 4 strips)
2 handfuls of closed cap mushrooms wiped and sliced.
2 spring onions, chopped.
About 6 oz of creme fraiche. Use your judgement. You need enough to coat the pasta.
Some chopped parsley to garnish.

Method:
Cook the pasta according to the direction on the package.
While the pasta is cooking, heat the oil in a frying pan.
Add bacon/lardons and fry until brown.
Put in mushrooms and cook until they begin to colour.
Add the spring greens and let then cook for one minute.
Add creme fraiche and stir in well.
Remove from heat.

Drain the pasta leaving a little water in the pan.
Add pasta and water (about 1/2 cup) to the sauce and stir in.
Put in bowls and garnish with parsley.
Grate a little parmesan over the top.

Serve with a salad if you require something green. ( I always need salad.)

Other versions:
For a delicious vegetarian version, cook the mushrooms and spring onion as above.  Add the creme fraiche  and put in the pasta.  Stir in bite size pieces of brie.  They will melt slightly from the heat.

If you don't like mushrooms, substitute with broccoli (Do not overcook) or frozen peas.

A Little Bit of Crochet

The beginning of a scarf in Larksfoot pattern.

I have not done any sewing for months and now that I am convalescing from an operation, I can't.  I am not allowed to do any housework (yay), cooking, etc nor can I lift anything heavier than one litre. This puts severe constraints on my activities as you can imagine. It is particularly frustrating when Hubby (who has been an Angel) is away at work and not here to help me.  Fortunately, I was warned.  I did everything I could pre-op and planned a few light activities to amuse myself while convalescing.
This embryo scarf is one of them.
I have forgotten how to crochet and I am very slow, but it is coming back and it is wonderful to be able to create something, no matter how small or how slow.
I can do this from a reclining position so there is no guilt about 'over doing it'. I chose the colours starting with the sale bin at Elys Department Store in Wimbledon, then moved on to find others to coordinate with them. A trip to Liberty with my daughter (also pre-op) gave me the opportunity to buy enough wool for a second scarf. If all goes well, they will make good Christmas or birthday presents for friends. If I don't feel they are up to scratch, I will wear them myself.  I'm not proud.
My inspiration for this scarf was this from the blog 'Little Treasures' which you can find at:
http:thelittletreasures.blogspot.co.uk/2015/15/10/larksfoot-crochet-scarf

I am following the tutorial at this site:

http://thelittletreasures.blogspot.mk/2015/04/larksfoot-crochet-stitch-pattern-or.html.

Try as I might, I can't form a link here, but if you go to the site above, there is a link to the tutorial.  I think the stitch is so pretty and it is not difficult to do once you get past the first row, which is always a difficulty for me.

From The Little Treasures Tutorial.