Shirt Dresses - Vintage and New

Vogue Pattern Magazine April 2012

For summer nothing beats a shirt dress.  This from a woman who lives in cropped trousers and t shirts, but I would like to think I could be grown up enough to wear shirt dresses instead.  This summer I plan to make two or three and wear them.  They are elegant, forgiving and comfortable.  Forget the wasp waist.  I'm only showing this to make a point. Shirt dresses can be loose and flowing and tied at the waist with an obi or ribbon to dress them up (on non-dining out days!).

An old favourite which I plan to update by shortening it to just below the knee and extending the shoulders a little.

I wore the one on the left in the early 80's.  It was made of wine coloured silk and I wore matching shoes and a silver belt.  I had a waist then!  I've never made the one on the right, but I think it's lovely.

These two are from the late 80's or early 90's.  I love them both.

I think I stole this from my mother. Might make it and adjust the shoulders. Very 90's.

Late 70's.  I bought this pattern on e bay in a fit of nostalgia for Willi Smith.

More from the 90's.

Very ladylike.  Vogue.  1990's.

This is so sweet and fresh.  It's 90's but could be worn now.  

More Vogue from the 90's.  Can you imagine wafting around in this on  holiday?

Isn't this gorgeous? Vogue 90's again, but right up to date if you remove the shoulder pads.

This one is called a playsuit.  For the under 25's. Circa 1992.

Vogue 1990's again.

Another beauty from the 90's  Vogue. ?there's something so refreshing about checks.  Unfortunately, school uniform has spoiled all that.

From an old McCalls magazine.  Circa 1950. Look at the price.

Very romantic -  Simplicity Magazine, 1957.

Nylon was a big breakthrough in fabrics in the 1950's.  It may have been hot and sweaty, but it required no ironing.

1950's McCalls

1950's McCalls.  Made in wool and strictly speaking, not a shirtdress, but two pieces.  Who could have had a waist that small?  There was no photoshop then.  Wish the fabric was still available.

  Hooray for shirt dresses.  How can you not love them?

Sugar Cookies

These cookies were an Easter treat this year, but they are good all year round.  We used to have cookie parties with lots of kids over to make them, rolling and cutting, generally having a good time and eating the mixture raw. This year I iced them and had some help decorating them. hey They looked lovely on the table, but I prefer them just dusted with icing sugar when they are warm. They are delicious with a cup of coffee or tea.





 Sugar cookies are very easy to make. I would recommend that you make the whole recipe and freeze half. Then you can make them again when you want them in a hurry.  The dough thaws out very quickly.

Ingredients

3 cups plain flour (Use a coffee mug if you don't have a measuring cup)

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

a pinch of salt

1 cup (8 oz) butter (Don't be tempted to use margarine  The butter is what makes them delicious.)

2 eggs

1 cup sugar 

1 teaspoon vanilla essence

Grated rind of one lemon

How to make them

Sift together flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt.

Cut in butter until the mixture looks like breadcrumbs.

In another bowl, beat eggs, add sugar and beat thoroughly.  

Add vanilla and lemon rind.

Blend egg mixture into the flour mixture.

Chill dough for 1 hour or more.

Roll out to 1/8 inch thickness on a floured board.

Use parchment to line baking sheets.

Cut out shapes and carefully put them on the baking sheets.

Bake 6 - 8 minutes at 190 degrees centigrade until very lightly browned.

Put on a wire rack to cool and dust with icing sugar 

OR

When cool, decorate with icing.

Dusted with icing sugar.  Yummy.

Inspiration for Quilts

Last week I went with a friend to the Courtauld Gallery in London to see Mondrian and Nicholson in Parallel.   I have always loved Mondrian's clean lines and use of colour.  However, having embarked on a little quilt making recently, I was struck by how wonderful Nicholson's paintings would translate into quilts.








The one above, in particular, was so subtle and beautiful that I felt I must 'try it at home' in fabric.  It's a project I have filed away for the future.  This photo does not do justice to the original.
The colours are soft khakis, mauves and brown with a textured black in the background.  I can see this as a quilt panel, or a wall hanging, done in soft cotton flannel or wool.  I will be looking out for the appropriate fabrics.

Here are two more, with gorgeous subtle colours and tonality which would lend themselves to quilts.

And another.  Perhaps a collage of fabrics overlaid on each other?

And finally, this one to be made from organza and other delicate fabrics?

How lovely they would be. 

Make Do and Mend - Using Kick Tape

During the winter I was a great fan of Super Scrimpers.  Every Tuesday night I would be glued to the box,  recording at the same time so I wouldn't miss a minute of the programme. The post-war rationing approach to saving money really appealed to me, although in reality I am not particularly frugal.  It's just that I would like to be. However, there were many good tips, including using vinegar to cut grease on pans and cooker, using bicarb to scrub really grubby surfaces and tiles and remodelling clothes to bring them up to date, sometimes by simply shortening a skirt or dress. I have since done all of these.

kick tape

In my dreams, the team at Super Scrimpers would use me to show people how to make do and mend clothes that still have wear in them.

When I go to the USA once a year, I buy my husband's trousers.  He is big and tall and many US brands cater for men of his size.  We both like Dockers, he because they look good and me because they require practically no ironing.  I usually lug home three pairs in my extra suitcase and I can tell you, they are heavy.

frayed hem

When they get frayed at the hem, I reluctantly throw them away.  This time, I decided to mend a pair with kick tape, because they looked new apart from the frayed hem.  Kick tape is used in good men's clothing and I have noticed it in his suit trousers.  It can be found in the haberdashery section of John Lewis and other fabric shops. You will need one packet for one pair of trousers.

How to do it.

First, unpick the old hem. Then roughly hand-stitch the frayed edges together.

On the right side, pin the kick tape in place, straddling the frayed fabric.  Edge stitch both sides of the kick tape on the machine, finishing off the ends by folding them under and stitching them.

Press, then turn up the hem to include the kick tape and stitch it into place. You will only be turning up the hem a fraction so you needn't worry that the trousers will be too short.  They probably frayed because they were a bit too long in the first place.

Finally, using a damp cloth,  press the hems on the wrong side, turn the trousers right side out and
press them again with a damp cloth (to prevent the fabric going shiny). Then press the seams.

outside view

inside view

Voila.  Trousers that look like new.  Super Scrimpers I am waiting for your call.

A New Summer Dress

Sewing restores my equilibrium.  It's been a busy and interesting week, but I am longing to sew.  I have several pieces of beautiful fabric waiting to be made into summer clothes. Today, being rainy and overcast,  is the day to begin. Then when the sun shines, I will have something lovely to wear.










Here is the pattern. I have chosen the one on the right.  I've had this pattern quite a while and now I think is the perfect time to make it.  It will slide over the waist, which is good, but I am thinking of making an obi in one or two of the colours to cinch in the waist when I want to look more urban.  Sew Today (Vogue Pattern Magazine) featured obis on many of their dress in the February 2012 issue. Does anyone else love this magazine as much as I do?

I think just below the knee will be a good length.  It will bring this pattern up to date.  You can see the fabric below.  It's a beautiful Liberty/Rowan cotton which reminds me of the paper umbrellas we used to play with as children.

These are not fuzzy photos.  The fabric is muted and and the design has been softened.  

Happy Weekend.

The Circus Quilt is Finished

 The aargh moment passed and although it is quite bright, I like this quilt.  My daughter redeemed it for me when she named it the Circus Quilt.  Thinking of all those bright colours and triangular shapes does remind me of a circus tent and bunting flying from the guide wires.

I decided to trim it with the bright pink to emphasise the colour rather than tone it down - impossible anyway.

Even Feed Foot

This little gadget made it all the easier to finish the quilt because it stops the machine pushing the top layer along faster than the bottom layer.  Unfortunately I did not have it until I was ready to do the binding and it was a real struggle to sew through two layers of fabric and medium weight wadding.  The man at Wimbledon Sewing Machines is a real genius with machines and managed to find one that would work on my machine.  It even has a quilting guide.





Can't wait to get started on the next one.  I splurged and bought a Liberty jelly roll.  Very subdued.

Watch this space.

The Best Iced Brownies

At the moment I am putting a few recipes on my blog as I can't keep up with the sewing.  Lots of projects buzzing around in my head, but also back at work after the Easter break. These brownies are so simple to make that I make them regularly.  I like the addition of walnuts or pecans but if you don't like nuts, leave them out.









When my children were growing up I made them for parties, cake sales, school fetes, etc.  Now I make them for our annual street party.  Everyone loves them and they disappear minutes after being put out.


If you don't have an American measuring cup, you can use a coffee mug or a Pyrex jug and go to the 8 oz mark for one cup. Easy.

I always use soft margarine for my cakes. It is lighter and makes a lighter cake,  but I NEVER use margarine for cookies or icing.  It makes a big difference to the taste.

If you like your brownies chewy, add another egg and keep watch on them while they are baking so they are still gooey in the centre.
coffee


To make brownies you need:
8 oz of soft margarine, Stork or Flora are best.
2 cups sugar.
4 large eggs.
1/2 cup dark cocoa powder.
1 teaspoon Vanilla essence.
1 1/2 cups sifted SR flour and a pinch of salt.
1/2 cup chopped nuts. (walnuts or pecans)
a greased and lined 8" x 11" pan.

Method
Cream the margarine and sugar until soft and fluffy.
Add eggs one at a time and continue beating mixture.
Carefully fold in the cocoa powder so you do not end up wearing it.
Add vanilla.
Beat well until mixed in.
Gently fold in flour and nuts.
Put in greased and lined tin and bake at 180 degrees centigrade for 30 minutes.

Cool and ice.

Fudge Icing
In a small saucepan or a milk pan, melt 2 oz butter taking care not to let it burn.
Add 3 Tablespoons milk and 1/4 cup cocoa powder and mix well.
Sift 8 oz of icing sugar and gently mix into the pan.
If the mixture is too stiff, add a tiny bit of milk and continue until it is of a spreadable consistency.

Remove from heat and spread quickly on the brownies.

N.B. Hide brownies until you are ready to serve them or they will disappear.